Working around the tree can make it uneven. Step 4 - Step away frequently and examine. As you trim the arborvitae, step away frequently and examine your work. You are trying to create a uniform border around the tree that ensures light gets to the bottom foliage.
If you are pruning down a hedge, it can be wise to run a string in front or behind the trees to ensure it is straight, you will be better off. There are many reasons people prune arborvitaes. The most common is to maintain its appearance. Other reasons might include the removal of unsightly or abnormal growth, to ensure lower sections are not being shaded by higher foliage, or to remove overgrown, dead branches.
Arborvitaes can grow quite tall and should be pruned to maintain the desired look. Often, people are interested in pruning an arborvitae after purchasing a new home. Previous owners may not have maintained the plant well and a makeover is required.
New arborvitae owners can reshape the plants in a few seasons by understanding how they grow, when to cut the plans and how to prune correctly. A little goes a long way! The best time to prune an arborvitae depends on why you are pruning. Check out the guide above. Keep the bottom of the arborvitae wider than the top to allow sunlight to filter down to lower foliage.
No new growth comes from old wood! If you follow these tips, your arborvitae can continue to serve your landscape well! These plants are versatile and beautiful. You will be able to enjoy your arborvitae for years to come! Search Keyword:. Blog Home. Plant Care. Landscaping Tips. Plant Addicts Anonymous. How to cut back an arborvitae for best results Arborvitae are great plants for a variety of purposes.
When to Prune Your Arborvitae The best time to prune your arborvitae depends on what you are trying to accomplish. Pruning Arborvitae to Maintain an Ornamental Look Spring - Removing overgrowth is similar to helping the tree maintain its shape.
Thinning cuts remove branches and twigs to their point of origin, or you can prune selected growth back to a bud to promote more compact growth. Upper branches that shade lower branches are thinned to allow sunlight to reach the lower branches. Do remove crossing branches and those that are growing toward the center of the plant, but don't trim a branch back to bare wood because it may not produce new growth. If you're using arborvitaes as a hedge, keep the bottom of the hedge wider than the top to allow light to penetrate to the base.
If your arborvitae is overgrown, don't try to cut it back more than 20 percent or it may not develop a new leader or terminal shoot. Arborvitaes are not prone to diseases, but if you spot symptoms of arborvitae needle blight, such as abnormal yellowish foliage, brown or black twig tips, or tiny dark fungal fruiting structures, it's imperative to remove such diseased segments as soon as possible. Cut diseased twigs and branches back to healthy wood and dispose of them immediately. Remove dead or damaged branches in the same manner.
Topping is often done when a tree's height becomes problematic. When the top of an arborvitae is cut off, however, it creates a very flat and unsightly appearance. No new growth will occur once the upward growing branch tips have been cut, and no horticultural benefit exists for topping an arborvitae.
The only time that topping may be beneficial is in an emergency when the top of a plant has been damaged. If you remove too much of its foliage, you could stunt its growth or even kill it. Prune sparingly on very young arborvitae in the first year or 2 of their life. Be more conservative when pruning trees that are over 2 years old. Arborvitae that are a couple of years old are more forgiving of cuts than an old tree.
You can cut back into wood that is a year or 2 old, and the tree will likely grow it back. However, in older trees, it's less likely to grow back. Method 2. Cut down to a lower branch crotch to reduce height. When you want to make your tree shorter, move down to the next place on the main stem where a large branch is growing off of it. Cut the stem or branch with a saw or shears at this point, but only do so if you're cutting into live wood. If you cut into old wood that isn't growing fronds, the tree will not regrow from that point.
Don't reduce a tree's height by more than 20 percent. Reducing the plant by more than this amount is too much of a shock to the tree. Plus, you run the risk of cutting into old wood, which your tree won't recover from.
Trim the tips of branches to shape the tree. If you want to shape the tree, particularly if you've just trimmed the top, you can cut around the outer edges.
Use pruning shears to snip off the outer edges of branches, creating a light shape. Keep the base wider than the top. These evergreens naturally have a wider base. When you're shaping them, try to keep this feature. Doing so allows the bottom of the tree to receive sunlight, as it's not being blocked by the upper branches. Prune lightly as old wood will not regrow. With arborvitae, the old wood doesn't bud. Therefore, what you cut won't always regrow. Use a light hand so you don't butcher the tree without it having a way to get its shape back.
Method 3. Use the 3-branch cut when removing a large limb. This cut allows you to take out a branch without damaging the bark as much. If you don't use this cut, you could rip or tear the bark.
Start by making a cut on the underside of the branch 6 to 12 inches 15 to 30 cm away from the trunk. The branch may fall off before you finish this cut. You should cut until the limb comes off. Cut the stub off at the trunk. Saw from top to bottom just beyond the swollen ring of bark at the trunk. Cut out dead branches to the stem.
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